Listings for VULCAN 20mm 50

Related VULCAN 20mm 50 information

What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?

m*oseman1 said: i'm on some other forms and some have a similar thread with some great ideas on how too improve the reloading bench.so please share. ie.using a catfood self feeder for bullets is a nice way too have a large amount bullets in close range of you hand when reloading.

j*e-nwt said: I mounted my case trimmer horizontally on the forward edge of my reloading bench and put a garbage container under it to catch the trimmings. Saves a clean-up when the trimming is done.

m*oseman1 said: I mounted my case trimmer horizontally on the forward edge of my reloading bench and put a garbage container under it to catch the trimmings. Saves a clean-up when the trimming is done. thats a good idea or how about trying a rope to the shell holder handle on the trimmer and mounting a pedal to the floor so you can release the shell with your foot ,it makes trimming with a cordless drill powered trimmer way faster. keep em coming guy's:welcome:

Sc*r270 said: Excellent ideas on the case trimmers. I put a couple acro bins on the bench in front of my case trimmer, so I have a bin full of to be trimmed brass, and one for trimmed brass. Keeps everything at my fingertips. As soon as I add in that foot pedal I should be able to really up the process speed. I like the premise of this thread, and look forward to more ideas.

m*oseman1 said: instead of buyin a brass tumbler i used a treadmill and built one out of that thank's to Fog Ducker on here.

f*gducker said: instead of buyin a brass tumbler i used a treadmill and built one out of that thank's to Fog Ducker on here. dont have a clue what you talking about:p:ninja:

m*oseman1 said: dont have a clue what you talking about:p:ninja: come on and show us,i know you want too:HR:

r*yce said: Do to the fact I have so many different presses, and not enough room to mount them. I mounted a 1/4" steel plate, then drilled and tapped each hole to match the base of what ever press I plan on using at the time. Then a small container with dividers to keep mounting bolts separated for each style of press.

h*gh manuell said: I power my trimmer with a cheap cordless drill, like lots of folks. When the battery crapped out, I wired the drill to a little transformer of appropriate voltage like is used on lots of electronic devices. It is no longer very portable, but it doesn't need to be, and no more battery charging. Hugh

mm*ttockx said: It's not really an invention, but I built a base for my press that is screwed down to the top of the workmate that I use as a bench for the press. It made everything much more rigid and raised the press up to a useful height. I have used it to full length size .338 Win Mag brass with no problems at all. For those with little space for their reloading equipment, a workmate makes a decent low cost bench for the press. I bought mine for $10 at a garage sale. You can also see that I use boxes of bullets (cast .44 Mag, in this case) to add weight to the workmate, it helps keep everything stable for those tough resizing jobs. http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk107/mmattockx/100_1710.jpg http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk107/mmattockx/100_1711.jpg Mark

G*t Juice? said: I attach a length of hard hose to my full length Lee Carbide Resizing Die. Then I run the hose vertically into a bucket that is suspended in the ceiling. There is a hole cut into the bucket that allows the hose to poke through, and all the FL resized brass travels up the hose, then dumps into the bucket. Speeds up FL resizing chore bt 35% since you don't haste time picking brass out of the FL sizer die, or using an inverted 2L pop bottle.

m*oseman1 said: I attach a length of hard hose to my full length Lee Carbide Resizing Die. Then I run the hose vertically into a bucket that is suspended in the ceiling. There is a hole cut into the bucket that allows the hose to poke through, and all the FL resized brass travels up the hose, then dumps into the bucket. Speeds up FL resizing chore bt 35% since you don't haste time picking brass out of the FL sizer die, or using an inverted 2L pop bottle. any chance you post a pic of that on here?:cheers:

G*t Juice? said: any chance you post a pic of that on here?:cheers: Sure thing.

d*wnwindtracker2 said: -A common one I did, is mounting the press on a piece of 1" plywood,then C-clamping to the bench. -an o-ring under the stem nut on RCBS F/L resizing dies. -a breather hole on Hornady seater dies,they should be doing that one at the factory.

z*mbu said: Built a shelf at eye level for my scale and trickler so I don't have a stiff neck for a week after reloading.

F*silier said: I posted this thread: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206258 a couple of years ago about how I mount multiple presses on my reloading bench. It has a bunch of photos so I figured I'd post the link rather than including everything over again. Here's a sneak peak so to speak: http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/Fusilier111/Reloading%20Bench/Photo01.jpg

Sh*otshellz said: OK, this is sort of a lame tip but I put an 'arrowhead' replacement pencil eraser in the bottom of my 'hammer' type inertia bullet puller. Saves the bullet point from deforming.

*mpegor said: OK, this is sort of a lame tip but I put an 'arrowhead' replacement pencil eraser in the bottom of my 'hammer' type inertia bullet puller. Saves the bullet point from deforming. not lame at all - sometimes the simplest things are the hardest to figure out. I WILL be using that little idea - thanks

DF*rmer said: Built a shelf at eye level for my scale and trickler so I don't have a stiff neck for a week after reloading. I have done the same, but with a small 12 x 14 inch table I made in woodwork class about 35 years ago. It is tall enough that it sits on my reloading bench and accomplishes the same as a shelf.

Dm*y said: I built a tripod to mount presses etc. It used to fold, but was a little unstable, so now its welded solid. Built pate-steel bases for all my presses, trimmers, vise, etc. that mount to top of tripod. Also have wall-mounted brackets for storage. Tripod is very steady and I don't use up any bench-space. http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l204/dmay223/Tripod005.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l204/dmay223/Tripod003.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l204/dmay223/Tripod002.jpg

Sn*epie said: While the attention of all the clever reloaders is focussed on this thread, I might as well take the opportunity to ask if anyone has an idea how to prevent the wooden ball on my Lee press handle from coming off when I apply force to it. Thanks in advance for all suggestions.

F*silier said: While the attention of all the clever reloaders is focussed on this thread, I might as well take the opportunity to ask if anyone has an idea how to prevent the wooden ball on my Lee press handle from coming off when I apply force to it. Thanks in advance for all suggestions. I had the same problem, I just roughed up the end of the arm with sand paper, roughed up the inside of the knob with the wrong (i.e. pointy) end of a file, epoxied the crap out of it and wacked it on good and tight with a hammer. It hasn't come off since. YMMV.

b*g boar said: For reloading cast bullets this is a real time saver. (OK, this isn't my invention but belongs to a guy from the Cast Bullet Association, John Kort, from Erie Penn.) You get a Lee collet die and disassemble it. Grind the fingers of the collet back about the depth of a gas check, or slightly more, and deburr. Now when you size your cases, the part you ground off is left unsized so the case is now pre flared for bullet seating. If you can make a pin, for the collet die, about .002 larger than supplied, you'll size the case less than max and this REALLY makes sizing your brass a 1 step operation. Sized and flared all in one. I've done this to several Lee collet dies and it works very well.

bcst*ve said: I had the same problem, I just roughed up the end of the arm with sand paper, roughed up the inside of the knob with the wrong (i.e. pointy) end of a file, epoxied the crap out of it and wacked it on good and tight with a hammer. It hasn't come off since. YMMV. x2 on the epoxy. I replaced the rubber sleeve on the handle of my RCBS with a wooden ball. Got the ball at Michael's (craft store), drilled a hole the appropriate size, a couple coats of varnish and epoxied it into place.

hk33k*1 said: I put no name JB weld on the wooden ball or handles on any press or molds from Lee. No prep, just put some in cavity and attached handle. They're solid now.

m*oseman1 said: i take a wire ,make a loop stick it in my mold ,keeping the sprue cutter open ,make my own fishing weight's (45 cal 450gr ) for some real weight . I also worked 5 years to figure out why beer goes in yellow and comes out clear, and yet water goes in clear and comes out yellow. I could have figured it out faster, but things were comming out clear at the time.

R*ger007 said: OK, this is sort of a lame tip but I put an 'arrowhead' replacement pencil eraser in the bottom of my 'hammer' type inertia bullet puller. Saves the bullet point from deforming. I use an ear plug

M*ltonBradly said: I reload some pistol calibers with a pair of single stage presses. The second press has a small metal arm bent out of shipping crate strapping clamped beside it. When I reload I feed a case into the first press, pull the lever and remove the case, feed it into the second press, pull the lever and at the end of the down stroke the little arm ejects the case out of the press, through a length of pipe and into a bucket on the floor. Once the case is set in the second press my hand is free to grab a new case and load the first press. It's not a big time saver, but it removes a little bit of movement from the process and saves some time in the long haul. MB

M*ltonBradly said: ...Oh, I made a bullet puller out of a Delrin block. The bullet is placed in a standard shell holder and dropped into a hole in the block. A spring loaded retainer holds the shell holder in place while I use the block as a kinetic puller on the cement floor. It's really fast to load and so far indestructible. MB

m*oseman1 said: using a piece of rubber hose and hoseclamp you can turn your manual brass trimmer in too a flex drive with a power drill ,if you want to get creative take the switch out of the drill and mount it on the floor so you can operate it with your foot,this seems to speed it up abit.

B*omer said: I use a rubber "O" ring in place of the shell holder retaining spring on my ram. This allows the shell holder to float and find its own center and reduces any chance of being held cocked or off center. An "O" ring under the lock-ring for the expander/decapping rod keeps that centered as well. I seating bullets incrementally as I turn the cartridge in the shell holder which reduces runout. When I crimp, I do it in a separate step from seating the bullet. When setting up a FL resizing die, painting the shoulder of the cartridge with a permanent marker will show the amount of contact the shoulder is making. The length of the lead is precisely measured by seating a flat based bullet backwards into a resized case and gently cambering then extracting it. Pressing the nose of a bullet firmly into the muzzle of your rifle then turning it scribes a line around the forward edge of the bearing surface of the bullet, which might be useful if you want a precise jump to the lands. The serrated portion of a pair of plier style wire strippers makes a good bullet puller. The tool sits flat on the top of the press, run up the ram, then close the tool on the bullet just forward of the case mouth. The tool leaves very small marks in the bullet jacket, but it doesn't slip and its fast if you have lots of rounds to pull. I don't zero my powder scale to zero, rather I use my check weight set and zero the scale to the precise weight I want to weigh. I use dry neck lube for inside case necks, but also to keep the cutter from chattering when I uniform new primer pockets. You can make a stuck case remover cheaper than you can buy one. A drill bit, a tap, a stack of washers and a bolt is all you need. Oh, and a wrench that fits the bolt head.

P*wderfinger61 said: when i started shooting ISU and using .38 cal for my 686, my brother inlaw got me into reloading. The load was 3 grains of Bullseye. At the time i didnt have a scale so he gave me his....it was a empty .22 casing with a piece of coat hanger brazed onto the side. Fill it full and dump into the .38 casing. Voila 3 gr Bullseye powder....I will look to see if I still have it and take a pic.

mrq5d*w said: the Q5-2000 cleaner/polisher Instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a name brand vibratory cleaner, I use a bucket, my old black and decker sander, Lyman corn cob media, and few drops of Brasso brass cleaner..it took just 15-20 minutes to clean 100 pcs. 357 mag. casings.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UetR2wf0jcQ this is the improved version; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVFn5ThgzV8

r*ger22 said: I had the same problem, I just roughed up the end of the arm with sand paper, roughed up the inside of the knob with the wrong (i.e. pointy) end of a file, epoxied the crap out of it and wacked it on good and tight with a hammer. It hasn't come off since. YMMV. I did the exact same thing on my classic cast press. But when using a rubber mallet I just had to give it one more good tap to seat the ball all the way. CRACKED the ball.:mad: I have a dillon 550 b press and like everybody does I ordered the accessory roller handle. So the factory dillon handle sat unused under the bench. Would you believe the dillon handle fits the lee press perfectly, is heavier and works just a little better. Lee sent a new ball for free. I do like the Lee press too.

d*nor said: Not a "clever" kind of discovery ,but still might be useful to someone-13.8 or 14 GR of Red Dot works best under WW casts in all milsurp calibers I have- 8x57,8x56R,7.62x54R.I bet it will work just as good in 8x50R Lebel when it arrives.

*ridan said: 1. A whet tumbler using stainless media. Similar to the famous Fog Ducker's model, but smaller, handling about 400 9mm cases. 2. Poor man's OAL gauge. I built it based on descriptions I found elsewhere, so its not my invention.: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1233.jpg 3. I put this 50 CD case through the side whole upside-down on my Lee FCD installed in a single-stage press. This setup is my bulge buster, I collect about 200 .40S&W cases then empty the CD case: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1231.jpg 4. My spent primer collector. Not much of an invention, but keeping the bottle closed makes me breathe less sh*t from spent primers: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1230.jpg 5. Two in one shot: A ghetto bullet tray. Does the job for a fraction of the cost (look at ultimatereloader's tray & you'll see my point). Also a LED flip-light from Costco, hanging on the expander die. I found this gives me the best chance to spot a squib load: http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1232-1.jpg 6. A counter. A saw others doing the mechanical version, so I thought it would be cool to make an electric one, from all the copier spare parts I have lying around. I don't really need one, I just had an urge to make it. :D http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1226.jpg http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1228.jpg 7. And, last but not least, my latest improvement to LnL pickup tubes: a tube mounted to Lee AutoPrime tray, with a 'vibrator' from a cell phone and a small switch. Loading the tubes has become fun! :) Don't let the small allen keys scare you, these are to center the tube so I don't have to mess with epoxy. http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1219-1.jpg http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/shafror/LnL%20Improvements/IMG_1218-1.jpg I am currently trying to make a motorized slide, to mimic the LnL case loader's shuttle. I'm also making a bullet collator so I don't have to spend $250 on Hornady's.

w*odlotowner said: Boomer, Nice idea with calibration method for the powder scale - i.e. zeroing to the charge weight. I will try this. Also, I leave my Lyman electronic unit 'on' for a while before using, since it seems to stop wandering that little bit after it warms up.

v*grantviking said: when i started shooting ISU and using .38 cal for my 686, my brother inlaw got me into reloading. The load was 3 grains of Bullseye. At the time i didnt have a scale so he gave me his....it was a empty .22 casing with a piece of coat hanger brazed onto the side. Fill it full and dump into the .38 casing. Voila 3 gr Bullseye powder....I will look to see if I still have it and take a pic. Probably made a dozen measures like this from all kinds of different shells. Find a shell close to whatever size you need and file it down then soft solder a copper wire handle.

577/450 said: I shoot a ruger mk3 and have 6 mags for it. Too cheap to get the magloader for them, so one day at the range after shooting 24 mags my thumbs and fingers were so sore from loading that I packed up and went home. was looking at the mags and tried to figure out how to hold the follower back so took an sks stripper clip and broke one spring out of one side and bent the other at a 90ish degeree angle at the right spot and now I can hook the mag follower button with the open end and pull it down and hook the bent end under the mag. So now you just drop the cartriges into the mag instead of having to push them in against the spring. If you try this put the concave (outside) of the clip against the mag.

mkr*inc said: I'm new to reloading, and enjoy all aspects of it exept for case trimming. I found it hard to get into a rythm. Solved that problem by modifying the 1/4 of an inch of the end 1/2 inch milling bit to pilot into the neck of a case and then sharpened the step. Then the table on my drill press is set to a level where the case would be trimmed to the right length at the end of the stroke of the drill press by using a trimmed case as a gauge. Now it's just a matter of set the case on the table standing upright, make sure it's sitting aquare, trim, go to the next one. Works great, and it's fast. Now I don't mind case trimming so much anymore.

f*gducker said: Fog Ducker's model, but smaller, handling about 400 9mm cases. i was thinking of it the other day.........wonder if its still spinning up brass:confused:....... lots of great ideas posted in this thread..thanks to all that shared there ideas:cheers:

m*oseman1 said: i was thinking of it the other day.........wonder if its still spinning up brass:confused:....... lots of great ideas posted in this thread..thanks to all that shared there ideas:cheers: Yea i'm still looking for a good drum for mine ,using coffee cans now but they are kinda small.Any ideas?

*ridan said: Yea i'm still looking for a good drum for mine ,using coffee cans now but they are kinda small.Any ideas?Mine is a Coleman 1gal jug, $16 at Walmart: ht tp://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-1-Gallon-Jug-Red/13848699 I had to hot-glue the spout so it won't leak & add an O-ring. Takes 5 lbs of stainless media plus about 400 9mm brass, with about 1/2 volume still free. Used it for about 4 months still going strong.

C*n-down said: the Q5-2000 cleaner/polisher Instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a name brand vibratory cleaner, I use a bucket, my old black and decker sander, Lyman corn cob media, and few drops of Brasso brass cleaner..it took just 15-20 minutes to clean 100 pcs. 357 mag. casings.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UetR2wf0jcQ Looks pretty good. Some baffles in the bottom might increase the movement of the cases.

m*oseman1 said: Mine is a Coleman 1gal jug, $16 at Walmart: ht tp://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-1-Gallon-Jug-Red/13848699 I had to hot-glue the spout so it won't leak & add an O-ring. Takes 5 lbs of stainless media plus about 400 9mm brass, with about 1/2 volume still free. Used it for about 4 months still going strong. and where do i get the stainless media?at walmart??:nest:

C*cked&Locked said: i was thinking of it the other day.........wonder if its still spinning up brass:confused:....... lots of great ideas posted in this thread..thanks to all that shared there ideas:cheers: Now you guys are getting me thinking about all the motors and speed controls i scrounged up then haven't had time to do any thing with. And i got some nice bearings in pillow blocks now...on the look out for 3/4 " shafting and something to use for rollers.......still haven't paid for anything!

mrq5d*w said: Looks pretty good. Some baffles in the bottom might increase the movement of the cases. thanks, I did improved it, I took my wife's plastic cake cover and my dog Frisbee, viola! I am happy with the movement now..:) here is the video. hxxp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVFn5ThgzV8

f*gducker said: on the look out for 3/4 " shafting and something to use for rollers.......still haven't paid for anything! pm me your snail mail,along with a length you need the shafting....i can cut you a few lengths.......it wont be shaft material .....but it will do the trick.......:D... and your total cost will still be $0.00.. lets call it a x-mas gift from me to you:D cheers

C*cked&Locked said: pm me your snail mail,along with a length you need the shafting....i can cut you a few lengths.......it wont be shaft material .....but it will do the trick.......:D... and your total cost will still be $0.00.. lets call it a x-mas gift from me to you:D cheers meh, you aren't that far, i could drive up. i'll trade you another motor and speed control , i have 2 i know work, and one set probable:D

ph*shroy said: I made this little dandy modification to my rockchucker. The spent primers go down the clear plastic hosing straight into my garbage pail on the floor. Don’t have to mess around with spent primer tray falling on the floor anymore and making a mess. http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/phishroy/DSCI0325.jpg It may not look fancy but its solves allot of frustration from having to look for spent primers that bounce out of the spent primer tray. http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp340/phishroy/DSCI0327.jpg Since these pictures i have made another small modification to the tubing, which is cutting a hole big enough for my finger or screw driver just past the elbow to clear out any possible spent primer build up.