Listings for PACIFIC DL 105

DIV OF HORNADAY PACIFIC DL-105 SHOTSHELL RELOADER SHORTGUN PRESS 12 GA  2 3/4"
DIV OF HORNADAY PACIFIC DL-105 SHOTSHELL RELOADER SHORTGUN PRESS 12 GA 2 3/4"
   $209.99
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PACIFIC TOOL CO. DL - 105 SHOTGUN SHELL RELOADER 12ga.
PACIFIC TOOL CO. DL - 105 SHOTGUN SHELL RELOADER 12ga.
   $35.00
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Related PACIFIC DL 105 information

Building a Dummy Round

*sbprime said: hey guys, I've got a strange question, and hope i can get an answer. I've been started reloading and am starting to produce some wicked rounds, and i want to make 1 special round, and am having difficulty. I want to make a dummy round for my father. It's his 75th birthday coming up, and one of my first rifles was his .243 Win. So for his birthday, i've gotten a nickel cassing engraved, and i want to build it like a real cartridge, with a 75 grain bullet, except no propellant of any sort. Powder is easy enough to negate, but I'm not sure what to do with the primer. My question is ultimately, is there a safe way to deprime the primer, without marking the surface so when i put it into the casing it looks authentic? I was thinking of submerging it in water to see if the water will dissolve the priming compound, any thoughts on that?

d*Bear said: So you have already engraved a casing with a live primer still in it? Would have been a lot easier to get a casing with a spent primer in it and then get it engraved after the bullet had been seated so as not to scratch the casing.If it is in fact a live primer still in it, it is easily deactivated with a bit of oil inside the case over a couple of days to ensure its soaked... Or you can decap the live round with slow gentle pressure and replace it with a spent primer.

v*lmet762 said: i remember reading on "the internet" somewhere that soaking it with wd40 or any kind of penetrating oil should kill it.

m*keelliot said: Yep, put oil on the primer and it will be no good. Post a pic of the engraving if you could? Cool idea!

d*nydart said: I have done what you are looking for and I think you want to have an empty primer cup in the shell without compound and anvil. I went about it the same way and soaked the primer in WD40 for a day to nutralize the priming compound. I then took a case and cut the rim off at the bottom of the primer pocket so I was left with a brass donut the same thickness as a primer. Take the complete but nutralized primer and put it into the donut with whatever priming tool you have and then use a vise/shell holder or case trimming collet to hold the donut and proceed to dig the anvil out with a small screwdriver or icepick. Remove the empty cup and reprime the engraved case with it.

W*lter Hornby said: just fill the case with the primer in it with any oil and let it sit for a week. that will neutralize it. in testing i have found that a day is not enough.

C Br*ad Arrow said: If you have a neck sizing die, you could decap the brass, and then insert a fired on it you are in a rush.

j*e-nwt said: I'm pretty sure the OP would like a primer that LOOKS intact, IE no firing pin indent. Whatever you use, oil, water, whatever, make sure you wear protective gear when you are removing the compound/anvil as there is always the chance the neutralizing did not take. Better safe than sorry.

J*hn Y Cannuck said: Numerous testers, both here, and on other forums, have discovered that oiling a primer for a short period is not always successful. What length of time IS successful? How can you guarantee it? I don't think you can. If you can't gut the primer physically, of all propellant (I'm referring to the priming mixture as propellant on purpose here) then don't use a primer at all, use a substitute of some sort. What's the danger? check this out; http://members.autobahn.mb.ca/~trainer/lee_article.html (http://members.autobahn.mb.ca/%7Etrainer/lee_article.html) One thing that might work, is to try to burn out the priming mixture. Be careful! there will be flying bits when it ignites.

tgt40 said: Why not yank an anvil from a primer with a pair of tweezers and clean out the priming compound with a pick or small screwdriver? Seat empty primer as normal.........

R*bSmith said: Disassemble a spent primer, remove the indent, reassemble, prime as normal.

m*keman20 said: fill the entire case with oil. this will not only make sure its dead but give it some real weight too

*TOM said: Heat. Put on your goggles. Stand the empty (hint-hint) case on a hotplate. Cover it with a tin can. Add a brick for weight. Wait for bang. If primer has come loose, reassemble.

P*paclaude said: Your safest bet might be to make a dummy primer. Assuming you don't have access to a machine shop, you take a small brass bolt or piece of brass rod and turn it in your drill chuck, using a file and sandpaper until it's the same diameter as a primer. Round the edges slightly so it looks like a primer, cut to length and epoxy it in. Shouldn't take more than 10-20 minutes. Just a thoughtR:d:.

*sbprime said: Cool thanks for all the ideas, i'll definitely try and soak it in oil/WD40. The primers are loose right now, so i can try a few ways. I'll Post a Pic in the reloading forum when i get it all put together.