Listings for 222 Magnum caliber
HERTERS HAND LOADING KIT 222 MAGNUM CALIBER NOS 1950-60 W INSTRUCTION
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w*ynesixgun said: At a buck each reloading must be cheaper...whats involved and is it worth it?
d*zzy dan 1 said: I think Repete loads slugs,he should be along soon.:D:dancingbanana:DAN>>>
s*hara said: I reload 12 and 20 ga slug loads just to tinker. I enjoy it but if you're looking for quick and easy that may not happen right away. Once you've found a recipe that works you're good to go but it may take a bunch of tweaking before that happens. Or your first recipe may work fine. For example my 20 ga. Lee slug load is great in a pump but won't function my gas operated SKB Auto. I use Lyman and Lee molds, both are nice. The Lyman roll crimpers are the coolest thing ever but you need a drill press to use correctly.
b*n hunchak said: I load 12 gauge round ball instead of slugs,both smokeless and Black Powder, I too use a roll crimp tool with my drill or drill press, unless using all brass cases. For my smokeless loads i trim the petals off conventional wads and load the RB in front, for BP loads I use a trad. wad column made of card and felt wads. Either way, it's about 1 3/8oz. of fury, at both ends! The roll crimp works and looks great with the .715" round ball.
j*st having some fun said: I have loaded the lyman sabot slug ( large pellet gun pellet) app 525g to app 1393fps 2-3/4 there is also 3" info up to 1560 fps:eek: ( can you say OUCH ) shoots good out of my 870 less kick than factory ( my opinion):D fold crimp (i use a different colour hull than my trap loads grey / red) so dont get mixed up and mark with a black marker info in the Lyman shotshell reloading book also buckshot loads that i have tried
R*Pete said: It's only cheaper (maybe) if you cast as well. I was paying 50 cents each for my Lyman Sabot Slugs. I wanted a load, for competition, that had less recoil, but alas, I only found that the full house loads gave me the accuracy that I required. I still load slugs on a MEC700 Versamec, made in the '70's. Everything is the same up to and including inserting the wad, then you remove the hull and insert the slug into the hull/wad, making sure that you don't fold down a petal, then crimp on the press. I enphasize the installation of the slug, because a friend of mine loaded some slugs and got a petal folded and upon firing split the barrel on 2 sides of the barrel plus a bulge at the splits.
w*ynesixgun said: Thanks for the replies...I am thinking about getting a Lee mold....Just have to find some wheel weights...
P.*. Islander said: Thanks for the replies...I am thinking about getting a Lee mold....Just have to find some wheel weights... My advise is to buy the Lyman "sabot" mold, don't waste your money on the Lee slug mold. The Lyman "sabot" slug gave good accuracy in most guns I tried it in and was excellent in some. A Win 209 primer, AA hull, WAAF114 wad and 30 grs Winchester Super Field powder was a uniformly good load. (This load is from the Lyman book) Accuracy results with the Lee "Drive Key" slug were horrible - I tried a bunch of loads in several guns with uniformly terrible results. Smooth bore, Rifled choke tube or fully rifled, it did not matter. I've had decent results with most Lee molds, but the "Drive Key" design is flawed in two ways. First, the slug is too small in diameter for most guns. Second, the "Drive Key" feature puts the center of mass too far to the rear. Foster style slugs, like the Lee, rely on the "rock-in-a-sock" effect to keep them flying true - heavy front, light hollow back. The Lee is only partially hollow and I think it suffers as a result.